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| SPEAKER PAPER: Breeding Programs for Y2K ~ continued p. 2. by Linda S. Rubin, SPBE and CF Panel Judge ©2000 All Photos and Articles “All Rights Reserved” by Author. Written permission from author required for reprints. First published in the proceedings program of the Canadian Parrot Symposium East, Toronto, Canada |
DIETARY REQUIREMENTS
Most breeders have their own preferences or favorite foods that they provide for their flock. However, today, a number of
manufacturers have increased their product lines to include brands suited for cockatiels based on their own nutritional
research studies. Many breeders are also aware that cockatiels live longer on a low-fat diet and therefore offer a basic diet
that keep fats to a minimum.
Feed: Obtain a high grade, well-cleaned cockatiel mix that contains canary seed, and white millet, with a variety of other
seeds in moderation, and fortified with additional vitamins and minerals. Select a brand that is low in fat for resting birds,
preferably near 4-5% fat. Breeding pairs, however, need to be offered a diet higher in both fat and protein content for the
required nutrients to form eggs, develop embryos, and nourish chicks as they grow.
If available, it may be preferable to select a pelleted or extruded diet instead of seed. Pelleted products are an excellent,
optimum method of feeding for both breeding and resting birds. Each pellet contains complete nutrients, there are no seed
husks remaining, and pellets and extruded diets are thought to be the most nutritionally complete diets as "best known at
this time." (Update: Never feed solely pellets or extruded diets alone; include seeds and fresh veggies as well).
It is important to introduce pellets according to the manufacturer's directions, as instructions do vary. There are two
methods that are the most common. The first method of converting cockatiels to a pellet -ed or extruded diet involves
mixing the pellets 50/50 with the existing seed mix, and increasing the amount of pellets over the next two weeks until only
pellets remain. The second method is to offer only the pellets during the day, but replacing the seed in the evening for birds
to feed so they won't go to sleep hungry.
Each day the pellets are offered in this manner (some instructions do vary). It is important in both instances, however, to
keep a close eye on birds so that they do not starve to death. Cockatiels are stubborn birds and creatures of habit and will
often times literally starve to death rather than attempt something new or unfamiliar. Therefore, use common sense,
monitor birds (ideally weigh them each morning) to see they are not losing too much weight in the process. If necessary,
return to the bird's normal food and try again another time once weight has stabilized.
Another point to be aware of when feeding pelleted or extruded diets is the change in the color of the birds' droppings.
Also, because there is little moisture in the pellets, birds tend to drink more water than if on an otherwise all seed diet.
One initial research study at a well-known university found that breeding cockatiels flourished with a pellet containing 20%
protein, producing healthy, robust chicks. It was also learned that resting cockatiels required a lower protein level e.g.,
15% when not breeding, as too high a protein level could cause damage to certain organs.
Millet Spray, Seed Treats: All cockatiels adore spray millet and the author feeds it to breeders and young daily, and resting
birds each week. Millet spray is especially tempting to sick birds that often won't eat anything else, and it is a great
advantage when weaning young chicks onto hard seed, pellets, or other foods. Spray millet is especially useful for new
birds who, when acquired as pets, are often too frightened to move for three days, let alone eat! Just hang a spray within
easy reach for positive results. There are also many other treat type foods on the market that can be fed in moderation. If
such foods are packing on extra weight, cut back until birds are back to normal.
Vitamins and Minerals: If one chooses not to feed fortified products, vitamins should be added to the diet. During the
breeding season, a daily offering of soft food such as a cooked corn/rice/bean mix, oregg food (provided it is replaced or
removed after several hours), should be lightly salted with a powdered avian multi-vitamin/mineral supplement containing
vitamins A and D3. Breeders require vitamins on a daily basis and resting birds several times each week. Cuttlebone or
mineral block, a vital source of calcium for both resting and egg-laying birds, must also be provided. Breeders also
sometimes provide soluble oyster shell, or chicken egg shells roasted at 350 degrees for 45 minutes.
Be certain to wash the shells before baking to remove any possible Salmonella bacteria.
Water: Provide clean, fresh water, on a DAILY basis, in clean, disinfected vessels. Water is vital to the metabolism of
nutrients and necessary to maintain good health. Be certain to thoroughly disinfect the water vessels using only clean
sanitary instruments not used for other birds. The author uses paper towels and dishwashing liquid each day to clean
and rinse the vessels; and replaces all vessels every week with an alternate clean set while used vessels are scrubbed,
disinfected, then run through the dishwasher and stored for future use. Interestingly, a research study entitled Cockatiel
Research at the University of California at Davis (Roudybush, 1985) found that fledgling cockatiels required the
provision of water in order to be successfully weaned, otherwise weaning was delayed.
Fresh Produce: A variety of fresh vegetables should be offered two to three times per week minimum, and daily to
breeding, weaning, and young birds to keep them trained in the habit of eating a variety of produce. Dark green, leafy
vegetables supply necessary carotene (converted by the liver into vitamin A) for example: dandelion greens (and flower),
collard greens, carrot tops, and kale, rank highest in vitamin A. Other vegetables containing a variety of vitamins and
minerals include: broccoli, mustard greens, fresh peas, string beans, chicory, parsley, and watercress, are all favored.
Lettuce and the cabbage family contain little food value and are next to useless. Yellow/orange vegetables high in carotene
(a precursor to vitamin A) include: raw carrots, and cooked vegetables such as yams, squash, sweet potato, and pumpkin.
In a pinch frozen vegetables (e.g., corn, peas, carrots, and beans), can be served cooked. As with other parrots, avoid
avocado and eggplant which are toxic. Fresh fruit, such as apple, orange, cut grapes, banana, and especially berries in
season such as cranberries and blueberries, and pomegranates, etc. are well accepted provided birds are exposed to all
these foods while young. Cherry pits are toxic and should never be fed. Cockatiels, unlike other members of the parrot
family are not big fruit eaters, instead preferring fresh greens and other vegetables. Yet, fruit can become an additional
part of the diet if birds are patiently trained to eat them while young.
Table Foods: Breeders with smaller collections or just a few birds may be able to provide some occasional table foods.
Simple carbohydrates such as fruits and vegetables, or complex carbohydrates if fed in moderation including: pastas,
noodles, macaroni, brown rice, spaghetti, etc. are good when offered without the sauce. Whole grain foods such as
oatmeal, sugarless cereals, pancakes, and similar breakfast foods are all good. Proteins such as cheese, scrambled or
20-minute hard-boiled eggs, small pieces of well cooked chicken or meat, can all boost the diet. As a rule of thumb, think of
your cockatiel as a health food nut, never offer foods containing high fats, sugar, chocolate (it's toxic to birds), alcohol, or
caffeine, all of which can cause harm or toxicity. Cockatiels must be exposed to dietary items on a regular basis to develop
good eating habits. This means feeding such foods from as early an age as possible and never giving up until your bird(s)
accept these foods. In time, they will. Never give up!
Breeding Husbandry - continued next page ...
manufacturers have increased their product lines to include brands suited for cockatiels based on their own nutritional
research studies. Many breeders are also aware that cockatiels live longer on a low-fat diet and therefore offer a basic diet
that keep fats to a minimum.
Feed: Obtain a high grade, well-cleaned cockatiel mix that contains canary seed, and white millet, with a variety of other
seeds in moderation, and fortified with additional vitamins and minerals. Select a brand that is low in fat for resting birds,
preferably near 4-5% fat. Breeding pairs, however, need to be offered a diet higher in both fat and protein content for the
required nutrients to form eggs, develop embryos, and nourish chicks as they grow.
If available, it may be preferable to select a pelleted or extruded diet instead of seed. Pelleted products are an excellent,
optimum method of feeding for both breeding and resting birds. Each pellet contains complete nutrients, there are no seed
husks remaining, and pellets and extruded diets are thought to be the most nutritionally complete diets as "best known at
this time." (Update: Never feed solely pellets or extruded diets alone; include seeds and fresh veggies as well).
It is important to introduce pellets according to the manufacturer's directions, as instructions do vary. There are two
methods that are the most common. The first method of converting cockatiels to a pellet -ed or extruded diet involves
mixing the pellets 50/50 with the existing seed mix, and increasing the amount of pellets over the next two weeks until only
pellets remain. The second method is to offer only the pellets during the day, but replacing the seed in the evening for birds
to feed so they won't go to sleep hungry.
Each day the pellets are offered in this manner (some instructions do vary). It is important in both instances, however, to
keep a close eye on birds so that they do not starve to death. Cockatiels are stubborn birds and creatures of habit and will
often times literally starve to death rather than attempt something new or unfamiliar. Therefore, use common sense,
monitor birds (ideally weigh them each morning) to see they are not losing too much weight in the process. If necessary,
return to the bird's normal food and try again another time once weight has stabilized.
Another point to be aware of when feeding pelleted or extruded diets is the change in the color of the birds' droppings.
Also, because there is little moisture in the pellets, birds tend to drink more water than if on an otherwise all seed diet.
One initial research study at a well-known university found that breeding cockatiels flourished with a pellet containing 20%
protein, producing healthy, robust chicks. It was also learned that resting cockatiels required a lower protein level e.g.,
15% when not breeding, as too high a protein level could cause damage to certain organs.
Millet Spray, Seed Treats: All cockatiels adore spray millet and the author feeds it to breeders and young daily, and resting
birds each week. Millet spray is especially tempting to sick birds that often won't eat anything else, and it is a great
advantage when weaning young chicks onto hard seed, pellets, or other foods. Spray millet is especially useful for new
birds who, when acquired as pets, are often too frightened to move for three days, let alone eat! Just hang a spray within
easy reach for positive results. There are also many other treat type foods on the market that can be fed in moderation. If
such foods are packing on extra weight, cut back until birds are back to normal.
Vitamins and Minerals: If one chooses not to feed fortified products, vitamins should be added to the diet. During the
breeding season, a daily offering of soft food such as a cooked corn/rice/bean mix, oregg food (provided it is replaced or
removed after several hours), should be lightly salted with a powdered avian multi-vitamin/mineral supplement containing
vitamins A and D3. Breeders require vitamins on a daily basis and resting birds several times each week. Cuttlebone or
mineral block, a vital source of calcium for both resting and egg-laying birds, must also be provided. Breeders also
sometimes provide soluble oyster shell, or chicken egg shells roasted at 350 degrees for 45 minutes.
Be certain to wash the shells before baking to remove any possible Salmonella bacteria.
Water: Provide clean, fresh water, on a DAILY basis, in clean, disinfected vessels. Water is vital to the metabolism of
nutrients and necessary to maintain good health. Be certain to thoroughly disinfect the water vessels using only clean
sanitary instruments not used for other birds. The author uses paper towels and dishwashing liquid each day to clean
and rinse the vessels; and replaces all vessels every week with an alternate clean set while used vessels are scrubbed,
disinfected, then run through the dishwasher and stored for future use. Interestingly, a research study entitled Cockatiel
Research at the University of California at Davis (Roudybush, 1985) found that fledgling cockatiels required the
provision of water in order to be successfully weaned, otherwise weaning was delayed.
Fresh Produce: A variety of fresh vegetables should be offered two to three times per week minimum, and daily to
breeding, weaning, and young birds to keep them trained in the habit of eating a variety of produce. Dark green, leafy
vegetables supply necessary carotene (converted by the liver into vitamin A) for example: dandelion greens (and flower),
collard greens, carrot tops, and kale, rank highest in vitamin A. Other vegetables containing a variety of vitamins and
minerals include: broccoli, mustard greens, fresh peas, string beans, chicory, parsley, and watercress, are all favored.
Lettuce and the cabbage family contain little food value and are next to useless. Yellow/orange vegetables high in carotene
(a precursor to vitamin A) include: raw carrots, and cooked vegetables such as yams, squash, sweet potato, and pumpkin.
In a pinch frozen vegetables (e.g., corn, peas, carrots, and beans), can be served cooked. As with other parrots, avoid
avocado and eggplant which are toxic. Fresh fruit, such as apple, orange, cut grapes, banana, and especially berries in
season such as cranberries and blueberries, and pomegranates, etc. are well accepted provided birds are exposed to all
these foods while young. Cherry pits are toxic and should never be fed. Cockatiels, unlike other members of the parrot
family are not big fruit eaters, instead preferring fresh greens and other vegetables. Yet, fruit can become an additional
part of the diet if birds are patiently trained to eat them while young.
Table Foods: Breeders with smaller collections or just a few birds may be able to provide some occasional table foods.
Simple carbohydrates such as fruits and vegetables, or complex carbohydrates if fed in moderation including: pastas,
noodles, macaroni, brown rice, spaghetti, etc. are good when offered without the sauce. Whole grain foods such as
oatmeal, sugarless cereals, pancakes, and similar breakfast foods are all good. Proteins such as cheese, scrambled or
20-minute hard-boiled eggs, small pieces of well cooked chicken or meat, can all boost the diet. As a rule of thumb, think of
your cockatiel as a health food nut, never offer foods containing high fats, sugar, chocolate (it's toxic to birds), alcohol, or
caffeine, all of which can cause harm or toxicity. Cockatiels must be exposed to dietary items on a regular basis to develop
good eating habits. This means feeding such foods from as early an age as possible and never giving up until your bird(s)
accept these foods. In time, they will. Never give up!
Breeding Husbandry - continued next page ...
Breeding Programs for Y2K:
Control vs. Colony Breeding
Dietary Requirements
Breeding Husbandry
Control vs. Colony Breeding
Dietary Requirements
Breeding Husbandry
Breeding Programs for Y2K:
Control vs. Colony Breeding
Dietary Requirements
Breeding Husbandry
Control vs. Colony Breeding
Dietary Requirements
Breeding Husbandry
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